Thursday, 31 October 2013

Autumn Make No3: McCalls Shirt Dress Version D

I thought, I better would hurry on to get this shirt dress done before the weather is getting any colder and I will not be able to wear it anymore. But, there was no need to worry, because the dress is super cosy and warm! The dress is make No3 from my autumn sewing list.

The pattern I used was McCalls M6167 and I made version D, which is actually more like a jumper. The shirt is only buttoned down to the waist and then you just attach a gathered peplum. The only area you really have to fit is the bust and I cut out a size 8 according to my high bust measurement. I then graded up the waist and hips to size 12. But actually there was no real need for this as there is plenty of fabric and I would have fit into a size 8 for waist and hips as well.

I then tissue fitted the upper bodice only. Surprisingly, my bust and the height of the bust darts were spot on - there is always a first time. So, I only had to move the back shoulder seam forward to accommodate my sloping shoulders. Then lengthened the waist by 1", dropped the neckline by 5/8" and shortened the top of the shoulders by just cutting off some tissue at my shoulder point.

Construction: As always, the collar gives me troubles when figuring out which piece has to do up - the interfaced or un-interfaced one? I know now, it has to be the interfaced one. Having settled this, I tried my luck with the cuffs. The cuffs were a first for me and I had some problems sewing the sleeve plackets. They are not as neat as they should be, but for my first attempt I am super happy about their look. The rest of the shirt dress came easily together.

Embellishments: I used red top stitching thread at the waist casing and hem to match my red buttons. These are finally my last heart buttons and because I didn't had enough I used flower buttons for rolling up the sleeve and a clear button at the collar - you will never see this one anyway :)
hand stitching
It took me about three days to make this dress. I started to cut out the fabric on a Friday night, which took my about 5 hours with having to do all the matching of the plaids. Luckily, just a day before, Lauren from Lladybird posted a tutorial about how to match plaids. Perfect timing! Then I spend half of Saturday and all Sunday on stitching the dress together. I have never done so much hand stitching before! The collar facing and the cuffs had to be slip stitched, which took me at least two hours. I am not the fastest one... But, I am so happy with the neat and professional finish that the hand stitching adds.

I have worn the dress already twice once for work and once to go fabric shopping at Goldhawk Road. I know I haven't completed my autumn sewing list yet, but I really needed some woolly fabric for my Colette Beignet Skirt. I bought the pattern already 3 month ago, but had not been able to find a nice fabric.

Although I didn't like the tedious hand stitching at all, I will make the shirt dress again! I bought the fabric already (I didn't know you have to hand stitch that much) as you might remember from my autumn sewing list and I am going to make the plaited version this time! So, keep tuned for another shirt dress coming soon :)

french seams


  1. Daniela, this looks so great! I love how comfy this looks - another pattern I will borrow from you as soon as I have finished the other two :) Great job, the matching plaids looks really good. Can't wait to see the next one!

    1. Thank you! It is really super comfy! I can't wait to make the next shirt, but have to finish something else first :) You are welcome to borrow the pattern. I can't wait to see your versions of the patterns I gave you!


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